Lash Serum: A Growth Product with Pitfalls
Key facts
- The Karlsruhe Chemical and Veterinary Testing Institute tested 71 eyelash and eyebrow serums between 2019 and 2026
- Thirty-eight of the tested lash serum samples were deemed unsafe due to the presence of prostaglandin analogs
- Prostaglandin analogs were found in six products without being listed on the product labels
- Exposure to these hormone-like substances can cause conjunctivitis, iris color changes, and potential damage to fertility
Lash serums promise long, dense lashes within a matter of weeks. A recent investigation found that more than half of these products pose safety concerns.
Full, long eyelashes are widely regarded as a beauty ideal, yet not everyone is naturally endowed with a dense fringe. Lash serums are marketed as a solution to stimulate growth, typically applied once or twice daily along the lash line using a small brush. Formulations containing hormonal active ingredients, specifically prostaglandins, advertise particularly robust lash growth, but they carry potential health risks.
Risky side effects
The Karlsruhe Chemical and Veterinary Testing Institute (CVUA) examined 71 eyelash and eyebrow serums between 2019 and 2026. More than half of the samples, specifically 38, were deemed unsafe. Prostaglandin analogs were detected in these samples, and in six of the products, these ingredients were not even listed on the label.
These hormone-like substances can cause itching, redness, swelling, conjunctivitis, or changes in iris coloration, and in the worst case, they can damage reproduction and fertility. Pregnant women and those trying to conceive should avoid using these products.
Warning labels are missing
Prostaglandins are naturally occurring signaling molecules in the human body. In their synthetic form, they are utilized in eye drops to treat glaucoma, a condition characterized by elevated intraocular pressure. During clinical application, it was incidentally observed that these compounds can stimulate eyelash growth. Cosmetic manufacturers have since incorporated this property into their product lines.
The core issue lies in the regulatory framework: cosmetic items such as eyelash serums are subject to less stringent oversight than pharmaceuticals. Consequently, these products may contain active ingredients closely related to prescription eye medications, yet they are not required to undergo the same rigorous safety assessments, clinical trials, or mandatory warning labels. Consumers are thus unable to identify the potential risks associated with these serums, and packaging typically lacks any indication of possible side effects.
Specialists are calling for a ban.
To date, the Court of Justice of the European Union (CJEU) has not issued a ruling banning prostaglandins in eyelash serums. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), the European Commission’s scientific advisory body on consumer product safety, has repeatedly criticized the use of prostaglandin analogues in cosmetics. The committee classifies the three most commonly employed prostaglandin compounds as unsafe.
The cosmetics commission of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) also recommends prohibiting prostaglandin analogues in cosmetic products due to potential side effects.
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Lashnews take
Brand owners and distributors must prioritize rigorous ingredient transparency to mitigate the significant regulatory and reputational risks associated with unlisted prostaglandins. Since these products face less stringent oversight than pharmaceuticals, failing to disclose active ingredients exposes companies to liability for severe consumer health issues. Companies should implement strict supply chain controls to ensure all hormonal actives are clearly labeled, protecting both consumer safety and brand integrity.
Frequently asked questions
What did the Karlsruhe Chemical and Veterinary Testing Institute find regarding the safety of eyelash serums?
The institute determined that 38 out of 71 tested eyelash and eyebrow serums were unsafe due to the presence of prostaglandin analogs. These hormone-like substances were detected in the samples, with six products failing to disclose these ingredients on their labels.
What specific health risks are associated with using eyelash serums containing prostaglandin analogs?
Using serums with prostaglandin analogs can cause itching, redness, swelling, conjunctivitis, and changes in iris coloration. In severe cases, these ingredients may damage reproduction and fertility, posing significant risks to pregnant women and those trying to conceive.
Why do eyelash serums face less stringent regulatory oversight than pharmaceutical eye medications?
Eyelash serums are classified as cosmetics rather than pharmaceuticals, meaning they are not required to undergo rigorous safety assessments or clinical trials. This regulatory gap allows products to contain active ingredients similar to prescription medications without mandatory warning labels or strict safety verification.